Tuesday, March 08, 2005

Fall' 05


WITH the shows just over in Paris, we're busy factoring in some key pieces and the strongest trends for next winter - as well as doing our summer shopping, naturally. Most important winter buys? A coat (make it a show-stopping, full one with a long belt), as many cocktail dresses as your credit card will take, some stack-heeled boots, a pair of skinny trousers and as much velvet and metallic brocade as you can carry.

There is, says, Sue Patneaude, executive vice president of designer apparel at Nordstrom, "no predominant theme" for the season, but there are plenty of key pieces: Stella McCartney's bell-shaped skirts, Chloe's smocked jackets and the "item" coats from McQueen, Celine and John Galliano for starters, she tells WWD. "The season is refined and glamorous with lace embroidery and sequins used in subtle, couture-like ways. It's very pretty."

To be totally trend savvy you'll need a pretty cropped jacket, a full skirt that falls to below your knees as well as a barely-there mini, a sweater dress (courtesy of Galliano at Dior, McCartney, McQueen or Giles Deacon), another edgier jacket (Rick Owens made them look a little like straight jackets), some cropped trousers and a pair of heels that tie to your ankles with thick coloured ribbons.

And if the idea that Miuccia Prada smothered her catwalk in black, putting it very much "back" for winter, fills you with gloom, there were several colours - every shade of purple from raspberry to plum, white, camel and teal - that still qualify. The biggest story this season has been the new obsession with volume that began with the spring/summer collections in September, however.

Almost without fail, designers have added pleats or folds to egg-shapes skirts and wide-hipped coats that could be frighteningly unflattering on anything but the most super of models. If you just can't face letting in the air, however, you can still keep it skinny in style. "What looked newest here is long and lean, as we saw at Balenciaga," senior fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Fink, said. "That silhouette has popped up throughout the week." As have some serious curves at Roland Mouret and Alexander McQueen.

From Vogue UK

Pretty much.

I agree esp on the purple & black. It's everywhere.

My take on what's to come in addition to the above:

- Victorian/Edwardian (high neck, lace) ala Rochas, Ann Demeulemeester
- Stripes ala Dior
- Military ala Balenciaga
- Checks/Gingham ala Burberry Prosum, Cacharel
- English Prarie/ Countryside ala Burberry Prosum, Vera Wang
- Couture 80s ala Chanel, McQueen
- Sexy, figure hugging power suits ala McQueen, Giorgio Armani
- Doll-like (big buttons, cropped jackets, baby doll cuts) ala Zac Posen
- Androgyny ala John Galliano, Bill Blass
- Prints and Bright Colour ala Temperley, Paul Smith, Anna Sui
- Leggings ala Paul Smith
- Russian influence ala Hermes, Andrew Gn
- Croc skin ala Gucci
- Satin ala Stella McCartney, Ralph Rucci
- Chain bags ala Chanel, Luella
- Office Suits ala Giorgio Armani, Bill Blass
- Adidas ala Yohji, Stella McCartney
- Ribbons and bows ala Valentino
- Tailored, Luxurious Trenchcoats ala Roland Mouret, Balenciaga
- Leather high boots (lace up) ala Stella McCartney [and tons of leather jackets from other collections)
- Little Black Dress ala everyone

Fur, Gloves and Scarves are everywhere too, but that's only because of Fall.
I'm glad that there are no FUR boots or anything that resembles Uggs :)
I'm glad to see Stella McCartney, Versace doing so well
I'm glad to see more LUXURIOUS rather than "cheap and un-chic dumpster" looks
I'm glad to see high luxe expensive fabrics and structured tailoring.
I'm glad to see not fleshy or flashy, yet sexy and sophisticated because of figure hugging suits and silhouettes rather than "little-fabric, lots of flesh".

Examples from the Runway (only for looks mentioned in the VOGUE article)

Ribbon tie heels at Loewe

Barely-there mini, lace, and sequins at D&G

Full skirt that falls below the knees at Kenzo

Wide hipped coat in Camel at Esteban Cortazar

Smocked Jacket and Stacked Heel Boots at Chloe

Purple, Metallic Brocade coat at Miu Miu

Purple heels with ankle straps at Celine

Black, edgy jacket, cropped, skinny trousers at Giorgio Armani

Teal full, showstopping coat with camel stacked boots at Versace

Long, lean and white at Balenciaga

White pretty cropped jacket at Valentino

Black cocktail dress at Vuitton

Subtle, couture-like, refined, glamourous, black, cocktail dress, ankle-strapped heels at Calvin Klein

Black, edgy jacket and barely there mini at Camilla Staerk

Sweater dress from Dior

Item coat from McQueen and camel boots

Serious curves at Roland Mouret

Bell-shaped skirt at Stella McCartney

Velvet at Jill Stuart

Pleats at Hermes

Cropped Camel trousers and jacket at Moschino

Purple skinny trousers at Bruno Pieters

Couture-like, subtly placed sequins, glamourous and refined at Chado Ralph Rucci (My favourite gown for all the fall collections)

~To be continued for my set of looks~