Thursday, April 07, 2005

The Great Denim Post

Denim on the runway this Spring
Other than the usual jeans and jean jacket, Denim this spring screams sex appeal with a combination of lace and body-fitting cuts. Jeans are skinny and have flattering dark washes. Jackets have appliques from sequins to crotchet.
As always, heels are necessary.

Lace meets Denim :
Christian Dior
Dolce and Gabbana

Skinny Straight Leg Jeans :

Denim Jackets with appliques :
Anna Sui

Shopping for Denim

Via Shopetc:
Don't go jeans shopping without first boning up on key designer jeans terms and treatments so you can decide which (if any) of these denim extras you're willing to pay for.

abraded (adj.): Describes the battering jeans go through to achieve a vintage look.

baking (v.): Treating jeans with a resin, then putting them in an oven so chemicals can merge with fibers to add color, stiffness, and make creases permanent.

broken twill (n.): combines the left- and right-hand twill fabric weaving processes (see definitions for both, below) to create more texture and help the fabric retain its shape (read: wear them 20 times and they won't bag in the knees).

fit block (n.): The pattern each designer uses to create his or her signature silhouette.

global sanding (v.): Using hand or power sanding tools to abrade (see above) an individual pair of jeans.

hand (n.): The feel of the denim, from soft to coarse.

hand tacking (v.): Hand sewing tucks and flaps so certain areas fade less during laundering (stitches are removed before sale).

left-hand twill (n.): Fabric woven to the left, a more intricate process that produces a suppler product than right-hand twill (see below).

right-hand twill (n.): Fabric woven to the right. More common and easier to manufacture, but often not as soft as left-hand twill (see above).

ring spinning (v.): An older method of machine spinning cotton into yarn with an emphasis on twisting, not just stretching the fibers; slower and more expensive, but produces stronger cotton.

rinse denim (n.): Raw fabric that has no washing procedure and is simply rinsed before arriving at the store; produces the toughest jeans.

rise (n.): The length of fabric from the crotch seam to the top (or, depending on the maker, sometimes the bottom) of the waistband; one label's seven-inch rise may be slightly higher or lower than the other's, so always try them on.

selvedge (n.): The reinforced edge of a bolt of denim fabric, which is woven so that it won't unravel; this super-durable edging is now highly desirable when making couture jeans.

slubby (adj.): A term applied to cotton yarn that is less smooth, more textured with nubs and character.

stitch count (n.): The number of stitches per inch on the jean's seams; 12 stitches per inch takes longer to sew and uses more thread than, say, 8 stitches per inch, but makes the seam stronger.

stone wash (v.): Stones (usually pumice stones) put in the wash to soften the fabric.

sundries (n., pl.): Extras like metal rivets, Swarovski crystals and decorative stitching on the back pocket.

tear-and-repair (v.): An aging technique that involves taking a screwdriver or other tool and tearing small holes in the jeans then sewing them closed.

wash (n.): The color and texture produced by the finishing process of washing the jean; creates varying results, such as an aged appearance or enhanced softness and can include applying colored dye and resin.

weight (n.): The lightness or heaviness of the denim. Approximately 8 ounces is a breezy, cotton-y fabric; 14 ounces is on the hefty side.

whiskers (n.): The flattering wrinkles around the crotch of the jeans. Sometimes behind the knees, too; called a "moustache" in Europe.

Méli-Mélo Denim

méli-mélo has some great denim.

méli-mélo (meh'lee meh'low) : A French word for "mixing it up"-the action of taking various things and styles and combining them in a harmonious if unexpected blend.
méli-mélo uses vintage washes and delicate fabrics to create shading and color variation which make each pair of denim unique and distinct. They use mainly Japanese and Italian denim, with some American denim for selected pieces depending on the desired look. Their waistbands are silk-lined and come from Spain, Italy and France.
Classic with a modern twist - modern with a classic heritage.

From Daily Candy:

"Méli-Mélo trouser jeans. The L.A.-based denimistas have applied their top-notch tailoring to loose jeans, creating a slouchy fit that flatters all types of bodies. Made from lightweight fabric, the pants come in vintage washes, with flirty floral silk linings at the waistbands and rear pockets.

Other intricate details — wide legs, unfinished hems, triple side stitching, thick belt loops, and front creases — lend an elongated, streamlined look.

The only downside? The pants are so noticeable they'll attract all kinds of attention.

Which is especially great on bad hair days.

Available at Poppy, 281 Mott Street, between Houston and Prince Streets (212-219-8934) or online at Pink Mascara.

Meli-Melo "Sylvana" 5 Pocket Jean with Northern Light Wash

Straight leg jean with medium vintage wash and the perfect amount of grinding which creates a natural vintage look. Hand crocheted back stitch pocket with signature Meli-Melo stitching. Roll it up and wear it cuffed for the perfect beachy summer look! Since these are cut with a straight leg you can easily wear these everyday.

Meli Melo Denim Jacket

Everyone needs a great jean jacket to wear all year long so update your denim with this fitted denim jacket. You won't find a denim jacket with more style and flare than this one with vintage maroon or rhinestone buttons. Lined in soft pink tweed. Hook and eye closure.