Tuesday, July 26, 2005

Fall Faves :Proenza Schouler

I love it when fashion labels do their homework and really make a well-thought out collection like Proenza Schouler.

The genius duo produced another whamming good collection dedicated to sixties pop. With chain mail tanks and dresses, geometric prints, mod mini dresses and armour-like bustiers, Proenza Schouler paid homage to the space age 1960s. It was also like a little revival (if one can call it that) of Fall 2003, when armour-like clothes was on the runway. (such as this Paco Rabane chain mail dress from Fall 2003)

This military garb was seen on the metallic coloured bustiers that were paired with chic long trousers to play down the look. The show seemed to run around the bustier shape, including many dresses. There were even a little psychadelia on the bustiers with cheerful prints and colours. I loved deep maroon dress with the bustier shape on the top and the voluminous egg-shape at the bottom to balance it evenly The geometric design reminded me of the Spring collections, but this was in a deep autumn colour and paired with the delicate clutch, looks perfect for Fall evening wear.
And of course, the other highlight - the chain mail suits of the gladiator age, created by Rabane in the 60s. Chain mail tanks hung loosely over lycra tops while others were re-invented with small black and white discs. It was a revolutionary look in the 60s and it is anything but short of that here when the look is paired ingeniously with modern tailoring to fit contemporary tastes. The outfit above for example, was I believe, one of the perfect outfits for Fall. It looks like a chain mail dress was worn on the inside but cleverly layered with a gorgeous purple satin babydoll and a boxy houndstooth coat (with a lovely cut). How many trends have been covered in just that one outfit already? And together with the moddish black and white necklaces, it looks ever so trendy and perfect for strolling downtown in winter. A very modern look for those in the know. Other chain mail pieces like this disc dress were also similarly layered over with grey cashmere tops and coats.

I thought the jackets too were wonderful. The geometric print continued with this cropped piece while I simply loved how this mannish blazer worked so well with their metallic suit. It looks cute paired with the mini skirt and not at all androgynous. The cape and waistcoat was also used in layering and is sure to inspire many out there who have run out of layering ideas.

And who can take credit for reviving the sixties without the mention of the miniskirt and dress? The mini dresses were beautifully tailored with a straight silhouette and designed with that sixties geometric print in mind. They were worn with boots and I couldn't help but think Kate Moss when I saw these pieces. The pea-coloured mod dress in shades of moss and purple cut onto it (see detail) was my favourite for the lovely colour. The little army green wellington-like lace up boots were also cute and the all over green didn't overpower. The wonderful beaded necklace worked perfectly here with the mod colours but modern shape and just completes the overall sixties look.

The gowns too, didn't disappoint. Borrowing on the previous themes of geometric prints, the lovely gowns were more casual-looking than those 'event dresses' in other collections. Still, they were wonderfully light and fun, and some had bustiers playfully peeking out. This black and white piece I thought, was phenomenal. It continued with the bustier shape and the sixties print and was eye-catching and not over-the-top.

The accessories were also moddish, with fun vintage clutchs, necklaces and scarves in black and white. The shoes too had that mod feel to them with solid colors such as this purple suede shoes and this yellow and green leather pump. There were also orb-like hats that came in earthy colors to top it all off.

A collection I'm sure Wintour would have approved of.